Confession of a Surfer Girl

avril 21 2020 – Annie Gagne

Confession of a Surfer Girl
Confession of a Surfer Girl

Confession of a Surfer Girl

Hello Jackie, where you're from and where are you currently living?

I'm originally from Atlanta, Georgia and am currently living in Orange County, California.

 

Can you tell us more about your background?

I have a background as a freelance writer/photographer and have worked at several publications local news, Surfer Mag, a women's action sports publication and Surfline.

I'm currently editor-in-chief of Rising Tide magazine and news blog at the University of California, Irvine's Beall Applied Innovation. The department focuses on scientific research and inventions that come out of UCI. We see some pretty cool stuff, lots of Medtech (including the latest on COVID-19 research), virtual reality, different startup teams developed by students and faculty...it's pretty awesome!

How did you come up with the idea to create Confession of a Surfer Girl? 

It started when I overheard a funny and interesting conversation in the water. I wrote for a local publication at the time covering concerts and musicians and there was a section called

'overheard in the crowd'

which I always found to be the most entertaining part. Then I thought of surfing and all the random conversations I hear in the lineup and I thought of a woman's commentary to some of these conversations. I would almost always hear guys talking about their dates, or fighting over waves, or two-timing women, some of it made me laugh and others made me seethe. haha! 

After interning at surf publications and years spent surfing, I realized there wasn't much of a voice for women surfers. There have been publications that have tried in the past and unfortunately, didn't work out. And I wanted so terribly for them to work out!! I wanted to work at once it seemed to be the right fit for me. And after trying to write for some of the bigger publications and not having any success or them asking me to write for free, I thought 'screw it!

I'm going to start my own thing because I felt like there was a need based on what I've observed in the water and various conversations. 

What's Confession of a Surfer Girl?

Confessions of a Surfer Girl is my blog that focuses on stories related to being outside in nature, people or products or events making a difference in the lives of others and the environment, and it is aiming to educate on popular topics or topics I've found interesting. It's about putting content and photos out there for people to consider, whether it's based on my adventures or someone else's.

Man or woman, at the end of the day, we are all just people in the water or outside in nature trying to find our smile.

What's the mission of Confession of a Surfer Girl?

The mission is to provide a different perspective, to showcase different thoughts and ideas from myself or others who want to share their content.

What inspires You?

Big wave surfers, and more specifically women who ride big waves. I have so much respect for these people. They encapsulate what it is to be a true water person.

Women big wave surfers have recently had a more uphill battle and I just enjoy watching them pursue their passion and break down barriers for the sport, despite it all.

These are incredibly strong people who are constantly on a search and truly make their lives about their passion for the ocean. Women big wave surfers are often working two and three jobs just to afford their travel and the preserver.

Paige Alms, Keala Kennelly, Maya Gabiera, any person who has gone or is going through a journey that pushes themselves towards a growing point.

What's your most memorable surf journey experience?

That's hard to say, there has been several! Getting lost in Baja by myself was a pretty great adrenaline rush! haha, I eventually found my way and had the best trip of my life. I made lots of new friends, surfed awesome waves, ate lots of great food, went to a bikini fashion show on my birthday...that's a tough memory to beat!

What do you miss the most now being in quarantine?

Visiting with my friends and family...THE OCEAN!! And the mountains. I recently discovered my love for the mountains and it's painful to watch them get covered in snow and I can't go snowboarding. 

Anything you will like to share with us?

It's important for people in the water to realize we really are just people trying to find our smile. Be kind to everyone, no matter where they're from, who they are or their ability.

Follow Jackie  @confessionsofasurfergirl 

https://confessionsofasurfergirl.com

Thank you!